Continuing the reductionist act that started with the Fall Winter 2023 men’s collection; bringing it forward and reducing it further.
In a current moment defined by utter extroversion, the Fall Winter 2023 women’s runway presents an introvert stance that’s about silhouette, texture, and the way materials react to light. Leather, silk duchesse, satins, velvet, cashmere knit, feathers, crystals. Black, brown, camel, white, red. A pop of pastel.
Casting Ashley Brokaw
Hair Guido Palau
Makeup Pat McGrath
Show coordination Holmes Production
Soundtrack Studio Frederic Sanchez
Moving image Titre Provisoire
AMIRI AUTUMN-WINTER 2023 RUNWAY SHOW
We drop the needle on an original composition written and performed live by legendary US producer DJ Premier and The Badder Band, transporting us to 90s New York: when the East Coast was setting the agenda – with Premier as its lead orchestrator. This is where the AW23 process began, with Mike in Premier’s Queens studio exchanging ideas and discovering archival cuts that link to the designer’s own formative years.
The idea of production flows through the collection itself, as Mike and his team’s methodology repli-cates the notion of being in the recording studio: jamming, discovering new rhythms, new ways of play-ing with materials. On this beat, time-honoured tailoring fundamentals are cut with those of skate, studio and stage. Drawn loose, fluid with generous proportions, shapes slouch with languid downtown ease. An irreverent spirit finessed by sophisticated materials – cashmere, silk, shearling, faux fur, brushed wool – elevates garments to the most luxurious versions of themselves; cast in a palette of mono-chrome, silver grey, azure and ochre, accented with jolts of deep red and mint green replicating the city hues.
Casting: Noah Shelley
Soundtrack: DJ Premier & The Badder Band
Runway Photography: Catwalk Picture